Dry and Flaky Lips: What’s Behind Them
We’ve all been there. That uncomfortable feeling of tightness, the unsightly flakes, the inevitable urge to pick or bite, leading only to more irritation and sometimes even pain. Dry lips are more than just a cosmetic nuisance; they are a sign that your body’s most delicate external barrier is compromised. While most people’s solution is to endlessly apply waxy balms, this often provides only temporary relief, masking the problem rather than solving it.
The truth is, chronically dry and flaky lips are a medical condition, often referred to as cheilitis, and understanding its root causes is the first step toward a genuine cure. This guide moves beyond folk remedies and into the science of lip health. We will explore the unique anatomy of your lips, debunk common myths, and build a clinically-informed routine for long-term relief. At The Ordinary Maroc, we believe in addressing skin concerns with integrity and scientific evidence, which is why we’re applying the same principles that revolutionized skincare to the often-neglected area of lip care.
Chapter 1: The Unique Anatomy of the Lip: Why They’re Prone to Dryness
To understand why lips get dry, you must first understand what makes them unique. The lip is a transitional zone between the external facial skin and the internal oral mucosa, and it lacks several key protective structures.
- Thinner Stratum Corneum: The outermost layer of the skin (the stratum corneum) is significantly thinner on the lips than on the rest of the face or body. This makes the barrier more fragile and susceptible to damage from environmental aggressors.
- No Sebaceous Glands: Sebaceous glands produce sebum, the skin’s natural oil that forms a protective, hydrating film. Lips have no sebaceous glands. This means they have no built-in lubrication system and are entirely dependent on external moisture.
- Fewer Melanocytes: Melanocytes are cells that produce melanin, which protects against UV radiation. The relative lack of melanocytes in the lips makes them more vulnerable to sun damage, a primary cause of aging and dryness.
- High Sensory Innervation: Lips are packed with nerve endings, making them highly sensitive. This is great for touch but also means damage and dryness are felt more acutely.
In essence, your lips are a delicate, constantly exposed membrane without any of its own natural oil or significant sun protection. They are designed for sensitivity, not durability, which is why they require specialized, conscious care.
Chapter 2: Beyond the Weather: The Multifaceted Causes of Cheilitis (Dry, Inflamed Lips)
While cold, windy weather is a common trigger, it’s far from the only one. Persistent cheilitis often has a more complex etiology.
1. Exogenous (External) Causes:
- Lip Licking (Licker’s Cheilitis): This is a vicious cycle. Saliva contains digestive enzymes (like amylase) designed to break down food. When you lick your lips, this moisture evaporates quickly, taking with it even more of the lips’ natural moisture and leaving the enzymes to irritate the delicate skin, leading to more dryness and the urge to lick again.
- Irritant Contact Cheilitis: Reactions to ingredients in lip products.
- Fragrances and Flavors: These are among the most common culprits. Menthol, camphor, peppermint, and cinnamon may provide a temporary cooling or plumping sensation but are frequent irritants.
- Preservatives: Certain preservatives like phenoxyethanol can be problematic for some.
- Alcohol: Drying alcohols in some formulas can strip the fragile barrier.
- Allergic Contact Cheilitis: A true allergic reaction to an ingredient. Common allergens include:
- Lanolin: A popular emollient derived from sheep’s wool, though many are allergic to it.
- Propyl Gallate: A preservative.
- Nickel: Found in some metal lipstick containers.
- Sunscreens: Such as oxybenzone.
- Sun Exposure (Actinic Cheilitis): Chronic sun damage can lead to persistent dryness, scaling, and whitish patches on the lower lip. This is a more serious condition, as it is considered a pre-cancerous state and requires medical attention.
- Medications: Certain prescriptions like acne treatments (isotretinoin/Accutane), chemotherapy drugs, and diuretics can cause extreme dryness throughout the body, including the lips.
- Dehydration and Nutrition: Simply not drinking enough water directly impacts lip moisture. Deficiencies in B vitamins (especially B2, B6, and B12), iron, and zinc can also manifest as angular cheilitis (cracks at the corners of the mouth).
2. Endogenous (Internal) Causes:
- Atopic Dermatitis (Eczema): Individuals with eczema are prone to eczema on and around the lips.
- Autoimmune Conditions: Diseases like Sjögren’s syndrome, Crohn’s disease, and lupus often have oral manifestations, including severe, persistent cheilitis.
- Infections: Fungal infections (Candida albicans) can cause angular cheilitis, while bacterial infections can complicate already cracked lips.
Table: Common Causes and Their Identifiers
| Cause | Primary Symptoms | Key Differentiator |
|---|---|---|
| Licker’s Cheilitis | Redness, scaling around the vermilion border (the lip outline) | The perioral skin (around the mouth) is often more affected than the lip itself. |
| Irritant Contact | Dryness, flaking, burning sensation | Linked to use of a new product. |
| Allergic Contact | Swelling, redness, blistering, intense itching | Reaction can be delayed by days after exposure. |
| Actinic Cheilitis | Persistent dryness on lower lip, whitish patches, loss of sharp vermilion border | Feels rough and sandpapery; doesn’t resolve with balms. |
| Angular Cheilitis | Redness, fissures, cracking at the corners of the mouth | Often painful, especially when opening the mouth. |
Chapter 3: The Vicious Cycle of Lip Balm Addiction: Are You Making It Worse?
Many commercial lip balms are formulated not to heal, but to create a cycle of dependency.
- The Illusion of Relief: Many balms are based on occlusives like petroleum jelly or waxes. They create a physical barrier that prevents moisture loss, which is good. However, if the barrier is compromised and the lip is already dehydrated, these balms simply seal in the dryness.
- The Problem with « Cooling » Sensations: Balms containing menthol, camphor, or alcohol provide a brief, distracting cooling sensation. However, these ingredients are potent irritants and vasoconstrictors (they reduce blood flow). Reduced blood flow means less nutrient and oxygen delivery to the area, ultimately impairing the skin’s natural healing process. The initial feel-good effect wears off quickly, leading to rebound dryness and the need to reapply constantly.
- The Absence of Actives: Most balms lack any true reparative ingredients. They are passive barriers, not active treatments. They don’t contain humectants to pull in moisture or emollients to repair the lipid barrier; they just sit on top.
A 2018 review in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology concluded that many lip balms on the market contain a cocktail of potential irritants and allergens, and that patients with chronic cheilitis often see dramatic improvement simply by switching to a « minimalist » balm free of flavors, fragrances, and known sensitizers.
Chapter 4: The Ordinary Approach: A Clinical Routine for Lip Repair
The philosophy of The Ordinary—focusing on single-ingredient and science-backed formulations—is perfectly suited to tackling lip concerns. The goal is to move from a passive barrier to an active repair strategy.
The Two-Step Healing Protocol:
Step 1: Treat and Hydrate (The « Serum » Step)
This step is about delivering reparative ingredients directly to the lip skin.
- The Concept: Just as you serum your face, you can serum your lips. Using a tiny drop of a water-free, oil-based formulation can deliver a high concentration of nourishing actives.
- The Ordinary Solutions:
- 100% Organic Cold-Pressed Borage Seed Oil: This is a superstar for lip repair. It is one of the highest known plant-based sources of Gamma-Linolenic Acid (GLA), an omega-6 fatty acid that is critically important for restoring the skin’s barrier function and reducing inflammation. It is intensely nourishing and healing.
- 100% Organic Cold-Pressed Rosehip Seed Oil: Rich in linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and pro-vitamin A. It’s excellent for skin regeneration and providing antioxidant protection.
- 100% Plant-Derived Squalane: An incredible emollient that mimics the skin’s own sebum. It’s lightweight, non-greasy, and excellent for providing immediate relief and slip without being occlusive.
How to Use: In the evening, after cleansing your face, take a minuscule drop of your chosen oil and gently pat it onto your lips until absorbed. Follow immediately with Step 2.
Step 2: Seal and Protect (The « Occlusive » Step)
This step locks in the treatment oil and creates a protective barrier.
- The Concept: After delivering the actives, you need to prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while you sleep or before heading out into the elements.
- The Ideal Occlusive: Look for a simple, unfragranced balm. A pure petrolatum-based product (like plain Vaseline) is a clinically-proven, hypoallergenic option. It has an unparalleled ability to create an impermeable barrier. The key is to use it over the treatment oil, not by itself.
Daily & Sun Protection:
During the day, especially before sun exposure, your occlusive balm should contain a mineral-based sunscreen (Zinc Oxide or Titanium Dioxide). Chemical sunscreens can sometimes be irritating on the lips. Reapply sunscreen lip balm every two hours when in the sun.
Chapter 5: What to Avoid: The Ingredient Blacklist for Sensitive Lips
If you suffer from chronic dryness, eliminate these ingredients from your lip products immediately:
- Fragrance (Parfum)
- Flavoring (e.g., Mint, Menthol, Camphor, Cinnamon)
- Phenol
- Salicylic Acid (in high concentrations, as it can be overly exfoliating)
- Drying Alcohols (like SD Alcohol 40, Denatured Alcohol)
- Essential Oils (especially citrus oils, which can be phototoxic)
Case Study: The Minimalist Switch
A 2020 patient case series published in Dermatitis followed 42 patients with chronic, unresolved cheilitis. After switching to a lip care regimen free of flavors, fragrances, and lanolin, 78% of patients showed complete or significant improvement within four weeks, without any other intervention. This powerfully demonstrates the role of product irritants in perpetuating the problem.
Chapter 6: When to See a Doctor: Recognizing the Red Flags
While this guide can help with most common causes, some symptoms require professional medical diagnosis.
Consult a dermatologist if you experience:
- Persistent cracking or sores that do not heal within 2-3 weeks of consistent, gentle care.
- Bleeding, intense pain, or significant swelling.
- Any whitish plaques or patches (a sign of actinic cheilitis).
- Symptoms that extend significantly beyond the lip line.
- Suspect a nutritional deficiency or systemic illness.
A doctor can perform patch testing to identify specific allergens, prescribe topical steroids or antifungals for severe inflammation or infection, and biopsy any suspicious areas to rule out malignancy.
Conclusion: The Path to Permanently Healed Lips
Healing dry, flaky lips is not about finding a magical balm. It is a process of understanding, elimination, and active repair. It requires:
- Diagnosis: Identifying and eliminating the root cause, whether it’s a habit like licking, an irritating product, or a nutritional gap.
- Treatment: Moving beyond waxy barriers to incorporate truly reparative ingredients that restore the lip’s natural function. The Ordinary’s oil-based formulations provide a potent, targeted, and irritant-free way to achieve this.
- Protection: Diligently using a simple occlusive and daily mineral sunscreen to shield your lips from further damage.
Your lips are a window to your overall health and deserve the same level of scientific care and ingredient scrutiny as the rest of your skin. By adopting this rational, evidence-based approach, you can break the cycle of balm addiction and achieve smooth, healthy lips for good.
Heal Your Lips with The Ordinary Maroc
Ready to transition to a clinical, effective lip care routine? Explore The Ordinary’s range of 100% plant-derived oils and other minimalist formulations, perfect for nurturing your lips back to health.
- Visit our official Moroccan website: www.ordinary-maroc.com
- Need help choosing the right oil for your concerns? Our experts can guide you. Message us on WhatsApp: 0764469471
Follow @theordinarymaroc on social media for more science-backed skincare tips and exclusive offers!
#TheOrdinaryMaroc #LipCare #Cheilitis #DryLips #SkincareScience #MoroccoBeauty
Disclaimer: This blog post is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always patch test new products before use. For persistent medical conditions, please consult a dermatologist or healthcare professional.
